Swim, tan, eat, repeat: It’s going to be a long, ferociously hot Summer and the beach is the place to go. Ray Au reports.
You don’t have to venture far off the beaten track to discover fantastic Lantau beaches: the big three – Cheung Sha, Pui O and Silvermine Bay – are all easily accessible and we love the way each has its own unique personality. Crescent-shaped Silvermine Bay Beach is a slightly manic social butterfly – a people watcher’s paradise. Sweeping, black-sanded Pui O Beach is a rugged old statesman with plenty of gravitas – somewhere to contemplate the meaning of life. And Cheung Sha Beach, the longest on Lantau, is simply schizoid with its untamed upper beach in complete contrast to its breezily commercialised lower beach.
If a desert island experience is what you’re after, however, our top picks are Shui Hau and Tai Long Wan. Nestled in a rocky inlet, with Lantau Peak rising behind, Shui Hau is wild and compact; large, frondy trees dot the waterline and the sand is silky and white. Tai Long Wan, which translates as Big Wave Bay, actually boasts three beaches, the southernmost of which is Ham Tin, one of the most secluded and picturesque places in all of Hong Kong.
Remote Lantau beaches like these are out of reach for most day trippers, and they mainly attract hikers and campers. There are no chairs, umbrellas or lifeguards on duty, and definitely no restaurants. Everything you will need for the day, you will have to carry yourself, but if you’re after a Robinson Crusoe experience, you’ll be pleased you made the effort.
SWIM SAFELY
While you may not get crystal clear seas, the water quality around South Lantau is at some of the best levels in Hong Kong. The Environmental Protection Department (EPD) consistently rates the water at many beaches as ‘Good,’ the highest rating they have, meaning the lowest quantities of E. Coli bacteria. For weekly updates on the water quality off beaches throughout Hong Kong, visit cd.epic.epd.gov.hk/EPICDI/beach/grading.
Lifeguard hours in the summer, at all beaches that are maintained by the Leisure and Cultural Services Department (LCSD), are from 9am to 6pm on weekdays, and from 8am to 7pm on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays. Full lifeguarding services are provided from April to October at five Lantau beaches – Upper and Lower Cheung Sha, Pui O, Silvermine Bay and Tong Fuk. These gazetted beaches also have all the amenities – changing facilities, barbecue pits and toilets.
One of the reasons Silvermine Bay Beach is so popular with families is that it has a relatively shallow drift and next to no currents. It’s the same story at Cheung Sha Beach though you need to watch out for rocks in the water at Upper Cheung Sha, and difficult currents at the western end of Lower Cheung Sha. Competent swimmers are advised to head to Pui O or Tung Fuk for big waves – be sure to get out of the water if the red flag is hoisted.
The amount of litter that arrives courtesy of the sea is notorious in Hong Kong and, for Lantau beaches, there are times of the year when beach cleaners are kept fully occupied removing the detritus that comes ashore with every tide. Well managed in the main, they do suffer from time to time from the litter people leave behind, so do your bit to keep them pristine. To get involved in a local beach clean-up, head to the Eco Marine or Plastic Free Seas Facebook page.
TAN YOUR HIDE
We all know deep down that sunbathing is a mug’s game: too much exposure can cause not just temporary discomfort but premature wrinkling and sagging of the skin, eye damage due to macular degeneration and skin cancer. Nevertheless, few of us can resist the urge to soak up a few rays. The good news here is that a quality block can impede sunburn and lower the risk of at least one form of skin cancer, squamous cell carcinoma. Staying healthy depends on the sunscreen you choose and how you use it.
Always use a lotion that offers an SPF or sun protection factor rating. This measures a product’s effectiveness in preventing burns caused by the sun’s UVB rays. The best products also offer protection from the sun’s UVA rays. In lieu of a UVA rating, read the fine print for ingredients known to filter UVA, such as Mexoryl SX, avobenzone, itanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
An SPF15 product is said to screen about 94% of UVB rays, an SPF30 97%. But you’ll still burn if you don’t apply enough, often enough. Remember you are not using sunscreen in the way that it’s measured in the lab; use an SPF30 too sparingly and the effectivity is reduced to one third. Dermatologists suggest you apply a shot-glass worth of lotion for the body and a teaspoon for the face to achieve the SPF listed on the label, and and that you reapply every two to three hours. If you sweat a lot or swim a lot, double the dosage. This will come as a shock to those of us for whom a 250ml bottle usually lasts the summer.
WHERE TO EAT
For many of us firing up the barbie is an essential part of a day on the beach, and you can find barbecue pits on even the most remote Lantau beaches but, if you’re looking for a slap-up lunch or sunset supper, there are a couple of shoreline restaurants we simply have to recommend.
Part fine dining restaurant, part laid-back modern beach club, Bathers provides reason enough to head to Lower Cheung Sha Beach. Situated a few steps from the shore, its open seven days a week for lunch and dinner and for breakfast at the weekend. The well-thought-out menu is big on seafood and steak, fresh salads and small plates.
We love the wagyu beef burger served with Emmental cheese, bacon, fried egg and smoked tomato relish, and the crispy salt and pepper squid with sweet chilli. If you are dining as a group of six or more, go for the delicious Group Feast with its sharing starters and desserts, and a choice of mains. Needless to say, there’s also a full bar complete with draft beer and some seriously good wine.
Treasure Island’s Beach Club Restaurant, Sun Terrace and Bar on Pui O beach is another destination in itself. Open Friday to Sunday for lunch and dinner, its family friendly with an upbeat party atmosphere. Eclectic DJ sets, ranging from Ibiza chill-out music to popular dance hits, encourage beachgoers to stay on well past the glorious Pui O sunset.
The menu is packed with timeless beach club favourites like fish and chips, pizza and fried chicken, alongside a good range of vegetarian and vegan dishes. There’s also a dedicated kids’ menu with treats like pasta and fish fingers to please young beachgoers.
Over in Mui Wo, some head for China Bear but our vote goes to Mui Wo Cooked Food Market. Open seven days a week – all day, and long into the night – it’s like no other food market in Hong Kong, apart that is from the bustle, the fiercely sizzling woks and the plastic seating. We love the moreish, no-frills Cantonese food and the stunning beach-side location.
While the menus at each stall are all fairly similar, Wah Kee and Yee Heen are our top picks. Order plates to share, piled high with noodles and the freshest, cheapest seafood imaginable.