REPORTING & PHOTOS BY Martin Lerigo
Drawing you up the lower slopes of Sunset Peak and then down through remote Wong Lung Hang Valley, this walk culminates at Tung Chung Fort, a relic of yesteryear, nestling in the shadow of a modern-day tower block.
The cooler weather is the high point of Lantau’s hiking season, and there’s no better time to tackle this glorious walk. Though close to Tung Chung, Wong Lung Hang Valley is little walked, so bring along your mobile phone. And pack your swimming kit, as it may be warm enough for a dip in the rock pools near journey’s end.
Your starting point is Nam Shan picnic site, two miles outside of Mui Wo. It’s accessed from the South Lantau Road and marked by a big, wooden arch announcing the start of the Lantau Trail. There is a bus stop close by and all buses out of Mui Wo and Tung Chung stop here. Just ask the driver if you’re not sure of the alighting point.
At Nam Shan, you’ll see way markers pointing you towards Sunset Peak, follow these along a path that the Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department (AFCD) has planted with indigenous trees. This is one of the AFCD’s showcase projects, and it’s well worth taking the time to read the display information and learn something about the enormous variety of flora lining your way.
WONG LUNG HANG VALLEY
Wong Lung Hang Valley sees few visitors. I’ve never passed another person walking this path, and that alone makes it a glorious discovery. The path descends steeply at first, entering groves of giant bamboo and acacia, then on through many twists and turns, crossing tumbling waterfalls that descend to the valley floor below.
You’ll almost certainly hear the shyest of all Hong Kong creatures, the barking deer that hide deep in the jungle undergrowth. Stand still and quiet for five minutes and you have a good chance of seeing one, trotting down to the rockpools for some fresh mountain water.
Keep descending on the well-designated path. About halfway down, you are rewarded by a breath-taking view across the valley, towards Lin Fa Shan. Only on a clear day can you truly appreciate the scale and breadth of the valley, the clear air removing the particles that affect the depth of field in our vision.
Here the descent becomes steeper and eventually brings you to concrete steps, connecting with Wong Lung Hang Road. Turn left and walk along this road towards Tung Chung. There is no traffic, as this is a closed Water Supplies Department access road for a sealed reservoir higher up the valley.
After about 10 minutes keep an eye open to your right, and listen for the rush of running water. This spot marks the start of the mountain stream that runs off from the valley and eventually makes its way to the sea, two miles away. Local villagers, and people living in Yat Tung Estate nearby, like to come here, and collect water from the stream.
Beyond a layby, on the right, is a small path that cuts its way through to a large rockpool – an amazing place to have a swim near your journey’s end. Enjoy the fresh, chill waters that shimmer aquamarine and azure under the dappled sunlight.
TUNG CHUNG FORT
After this refreshing stop, re-join Wong Lung Hang Road and turn right towards Tung Chung. After five minutes or so, you join the main Tung Chung Road, adjacent to Yat Tung Estate. Turn left and walk for five minutes, looking out for Tung Chung Fort which lies just ahead on your left-hand side. You’ll see a signpost for the fort nestled in amongst other signs for local restaurants.
Through a path between local houses, you’ll see the entrance to Tung Chung Fort, a seldom visited and rather lonely relic of Hong Kong’s past. The fort dates from the 12th century Southern Song Dynasty. It has gone through many incarnations since then, the current structure dating to 1843, when the fort was resurrected as a defence against pirates. Once a school and more recently home to the Tung Chung Rural Committee, this unique piece of local history seems all but forgotten, tucked away out of sight and hidden from all but the most inquisitive.
Standing inside Tung Chung Fort’s central compound, the six remaining cast-iron cannons point directly at Yat Tung Estate, which towers in the distance, testament to the amazing change development has brought to Lantau.