WITH BEACHES OPEN AGAIN AND THE WEATHER HOTTING UP, SUMMER HAS OFFICIALLY STARTED!
PHOTOS COURTESY OF Terry Chow, Martin Lerigo, Andrew Spires & Duey Tan
We are fortunate indeed to have wonderful beaches here on Lantau, from big open bays replete with lifeguard towers and Coca-Cola stalls, to small, hidden gems tucked beneath rugged cliffs. In fact, many Lantau families have the beach as their back door, and treasure their privilege with a passion. Living here, you can be in a meeting amongst the skyscrapers at 9am and on a quiet beach sipping sangria by midday. This contrast is one of the great draws of island life.
While you may not get crystal clear seas, the water quality around southern Lantau is at some of the best levels in Hong Kong. The Environmental Protection Department (EPD) consistently rates the water at many beaches as ‘Good,’ the highest rating they have, meaning the lowest quantities of E. Coli bacteria. For weekly updates on the water quality off beaches throughout Hong Kong, visit www.beachwq.gov.hk/en/map.aspx.
Our three featured beaches this month – Silvermine, Pui O and Cheung Sha – are all family friendly (maintained by the Leisure and Cultural Services Department) and easily accessible. We love the way they each have their own unique charm and character: Silvermine is a slightly manic social butterfly – a people watcher’s paradise. Pui O is a rugged old statesman with plenty of gravitas – somewhere to contemplate the meaning of life. And Cheung Sha is simply schizoid with its untamed upper beach in complete contrast to its breezily commercialised lower beach.
It’s clear that you don’t have to venture far off the beaten track to discover fantastic Lantau beaches but if a desert island experience is what you’re after, our top pick is Tai Long Wan.
Tai Long Wan, which translates as Big Wave Bay, actually boasts three beaches, the southernmost of which is Ham Tin, one of the most secluded and picturesque places in all of Hong Kong. After getting off a bus at Sha Tsui at the corner of Shek Pik Reservoir, follow Wang Pui Road (and the sound of crashing waves) through Tai Long Wan village to the beach. If you’re taking it easy, or have small children in tow, it may take up to 30 minutes to reach the beach from the road.
Once at the beach, chances are you will be entirely alone, on a completely deserted stretch of sand. There are no chairs, umbrellas or lifeguards on duty, and definitely no restaurants. Everything you will need for the day, you will have to bring yourself. This may seem like a drawback, but with the hectic lifestyles so many of us lead here, the opportunity to get back to basics (with a few friends or family) is a real luxury.
SILVERMINE BEACH
A perfect crescent of sand nestled below Ling Fa Shan peak and the spectacular Mui Wo basin, Silvermine Beach is busier than most on Lantau, largely because it’s somewhere you can enjoy the sand and sea without too much hassle. This easily accessible beach has all the amenities – changing facilities, barbecue pits and toilets. The lifeguard hours in the summer, as with all beaches that are maintained by the Leisure and Cultural Services Department (LCSD), are from 9am to 6pm on weekdays, and from 8am to 7pm on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays. Silvermine Beach is deemed family-friendly, with relatively shallow drift and little by way of difficult currents.
If you and your friends are the active sort, have a turn using the beach volleyball court nestled under a pair of trees just metres from the river Silver. Alternately, spend a night at Silvermine Beach Hotel and enjoy some of the myriad outdoor activities on offer – you can rent stand-up paddle boards, peddle boats and kayaks. It is worth mentioning, however, that the water quality at Silvermine Beach is on-average rated as ‘Fair’ by the Environmental Protection Department (EPD), the grade below ‘Good,’ and the beach can get quite crowded on weekends.
That being said, the water is generally calm and the sand is soft and inviting. Considering that, and all the nearby restaurants to sample, Silvermine Beach is a great repeat destination for families.
Hang with the locals at China Bear!
Perched on the waterfront right next to Mui Wo Ferry Pier, The China Bear has become a Mui Wo institution, popular amongst hikers, beachgoers and locals for the past 20 years. Hunker down on the large outdoor dining area to spend an afternoon watching the ferries go by, or stay late and enjoy a moon rise over Hong Kong.
Always evolving, the menu at the Bear is mostly Mediterranean, with a few Asian favourites and Northern comforts thrown in. The emphasis is on value for money and tasty, yet unpretentious dishes. Check out the full breakfast weekend menu – Eggs Benedict, banana pancakes or full English.
Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, with happy hour from 5pm to 9pm weekdays and breakfast at the weekend. Visit www.chinabear.com.hk
CHEUNG SHA BEACH
Popular with day trippers and junk groups alike, Lower Cheung Sha Beach sva Hong Kong institution. The sand here is light and powdery, making it a favourite with kids, who build castles and fortresses that battle with the incoming tides. While full lifeguarding services are provided from April to October, be aware of some difficult currents at the western end of the beach.
Upper Cheung Sha Beach is just a short walk away, over an unassuming headland that barely reaches the coast. This beach is also maintained by the LCSD, and the lifeguard post at the western end has the regular showers, toilets and changing rooms. While the sand is soft, there are some rocks dotted around both in the water and on the beach itself, so be a bit careful where you set up, and where you swim.
Bring lots of water and snacks if you plan to stay the day, as Upper Cheung Sha Beach has less amenities and restaurants than its lower, busier counterpart, and there is very little shade. This beach is best enjoyed under a portable umbrella, with a cooler full of drinks, sandwiches, chips and dips.
The main draw of Upper Cheung Sha Beach is its length; at 3 kilometres it’s the longest on Lantau. Walking here, you may well have the whole place to yourself, unless, of course, you’re lucky enough to come across the resident herd of cows sitting on the sands – a serene addition to an already idyllic backdrop.
Feel the holiday vibe at Bathers!
Situated a few steps from the sea on glorious Lower Cheung Sha Beach, Bathers is part fine dining restaurant, part laid-back modern beach club. The pillar-less dining area seats 120 and the mouth-watering menu is big on seafood and steak, fresh salads and small plates.
We love the sumptuous wagyu beef burger served with Emmental cheese, bacon, fried egg and smoked tomato relish, and the crispy salt and pepper squid with sweet chili. If you are dining as a group of six or more, go for the delicious Group Feast with its sharing starters and desserts, and a choice of mains. Needless to say, there’s also a full bar complete with draft beer and some seriously good wine.
Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, and for breakfast at the weekend. Visit www.bathers.com.hk
PUI O BEACH
Pui O’s environs are hard to beat. The route from the bus stop on South Lantau Road takes you past the quiet Pui O village, and through fields where water buffalo are often found grazing, or simply hanging out. Oftentimes, on a sunny day, the herd will stroll down to the sands after sunset to cool off in the sea. You’ll also spot gaggles of clam pickers at low tide, collecting the local delicacy which is often served up for dinner from the campsite stoves behind.
Pui O is a beach of two halves, one end well-cultivated with barbecue pits and a campsite, the other carefree and wild, with trees and mangroves down to the waterline. The ‘black’ sand is flanked by a rocky outcrop on the Chi Ma Wan Peninsula to the southeast, and Yi Tung Shan and Sunset Peak to the northwest.
Treasure Island continues to make a splash at the wilder end of the beach, providing kayak and board rentals, along with cabanas and tents should you choose to make a long weekend of it. Parents can set up shop on the terrace and watch the kids gallivant on the beach below. The group also offers beach chair rentals, as well as coolers and beach bags in case you prefer to pick up supplies and lug them across the sand.
The LCSD campsite on the other side of the beach is at most 50 metres from the sea (tide dependant), and there you’ll be rocked to sleep by the sound of the waves smashing the shore. Two tuck shops on the route to the beach rent tents, and sell most of the equipment you need to use the campsite’s barbecue pits.
Party at Treasure Island.
The breeziest hangout in South Lantau, Treasure Island’s Beach Club Restaurant, Sun Terrace and Bar is known for its stunning beachside location and party atmosphere. Eclectic DJ sets, ranging from Ibiza chill-out music to popular dance hits, encourage beachgoers to stay on well past the glorious Pui O sunset.
The menu is packed with timeless beach club favourites, like fish and chips, pizza and fried chicken, alongside a good range of vegetarian and vegan dishes. There’s also a dedicated kids’ menu with treats like pasta and fish fingers to please young beachgoers.
Open Fridays 12pm to 10pm, Saturdays 10pm to 10pm, and Sundays and public holidays 10pm to 8pm.